MONOPOLY

Last stroll ...

From Gare de Lyon to prison La Santé

plan promenade monopoly gare de Lyon à la Santé

This is the last walk in our Monopoly series, starting at the Place de la Bastille to first reach the Gare de Lyon.

We'll then cross the Seine and the Jardin des Plantes before heading for Boulevard Saint-Michel. 

The accumulation of cheats on this long Monopoly walk leads me, not surprisingly, to end up at the Prison de la Santé...

  • From the Place de la Bastille, we walk to our next destination: the Gare de Lyon, along the well-named Rue de Lyon.
    There's no risk of running into a prison here (not yet). The Bastille prison disappeared a long time ago, and the Mazas prison over a hundred years ago.
    Before it was lined with elegant Hausmann-style buildings, rue de Lyon was along one side of the Mazas prison. Built in the mid-nineteenth century, its fan-shaped architecture was based on the American model of prison. Over three floors, six corridors converged on a rotunda from which the entire inside of the prison could be monitored. The cells were individual. Today, the concept of total isolation is only considered for the most dangerous prisoners. At that time, it was rather the opposite; prisoners serving short sentences were considered more likely to be influenced by the more dangerous prisoners, so they should be kept separate.
    It was decided to demolish the prison in 1898, due to its proximity to the new Gare de Lyon, rebuilt for the 1900 Universal Exhibition.

Indeed, it would have been quite sad to spoil the view of the impressive clock tower, looking like a campanile. 

While this view may bring Italy to mind, the colorful houses of the pretty rue Crémieux can also evoke Burrano. 

Tour Gare de Lyon Promenade Monopoly
promenade monopoly gare de lyon
Maisons rue Crémieux
  • Turn right onto Boulevard Diderot. The glass walls of the buildings mirror nicely the tower clock.

gare de Lyon

We finally arrive at the Gare de Lyon, just four Monopoloy squares past the Boulevard de la Villette, but more than four streets away!

Feel like boarding a train to Italy or the south? Or have lunch at Le Train Bleu, a beautiful restaurant like a museum with its monumental paintings? If the bright colours of the huge fresco between halls 1 and 2 might suggest departure to sunny places, the grey underground halls just lead to sad suburbs.

Sorry, Venice is not an option; the dice have decided otherwise. After 3, it's off to Boulevard Saint-Michel. Three squares, but a lot more than three streets through the 5th arrondissement ...  

  • We are now walking along the Square Albert Tournaire, without any children or strollers, despite the presence of two benches and a few trees. After all, it's not an ideal place. At the end of the public garden, the red bricks of the forensic institute give off a sinister vibe.
  • Let's rather quickly move on to the Pont d'Austerlitz. Remember, this bridge, crowned by huge tricoloured clouds, was the Olympic games' starting point for the boats of thousands of athletes.

    Luca Bruno / AP

    • Let's enter the Jardin des Plantes, created in 1626 for the study and culture of medicinal plants.
      jardin des Plantes Galerie de l'évolution
      • The statue of the great Buffon, seated in an armchair, is along the main path on the left, facing the Great Gallery of Evolution. He managed the site for almost fifty years, developing it from a simple garden into a scientific centre and natural history museum. He also worked with the greatest scientists of his time, including the naturalists Lamarck and Daubenton and the agronomist Thouin. As a great naturalist himself, he left a monumental encyclopaedia devoted to natural history, describing birds, mammals and minerals in great detail.  

      Jardin des Plantes - Buffon
      • Let's take the path on the right towards the large greenhouse, and head for the exit on rue Cuvier. As we walk, note the oldest French cedar of Lebanon, planted in 1734 by Jussieu.

      cèdre du liban planté par Jussieu en 1734 Jardin des Plantes
      • Let's cross the rue Linné and take the rue Lacépède opposite, which will take us to the Place de la Contrescarpe, lined with café terraces.
      place de la contrescarpe

      Place de Contrescarpe

      Atget - 1909

      (Musée Carnavalet)

      • Let's continue along rue Blainville to place Emmanuel Lévinas.

      place Emmanuel Lévinas
      • We now arrive at the Place de l'Estrapade, so charming that it is hard to figure out where it got its name, which was nothing less than a horrible torture. The once peaceful square is now a hotspot for fans of Emily in Paris, taking pictures at No. 1, thus causing another torment for the locals and a real blessing for the bakery... 

        With a bit of fun, the bookshop La Libre Pensée at 10 rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques suggests books Emily could read to develop her sense of criticism!  I cannot resist extending the proposal to my website for another side to Paris ... 

      place de l'Estrapade
      la libre pensée
      Emily should read it
      10 rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques

      The future is a door, the past is the key - Victor Hugo

      • After the rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, continue along the rue Malebranche and turn right into the rue Le Goff. You will then come to the rue Soufflot, where you turn left towards the Jardin du Luxembourg.

      It's in this part, when it runs alongside the Luxembourg Gardens, that I prefer the Boulevard Saint Michel, or Boul'Mich for the locals. 

      I like the view of the Pantheon from Boul'Mich to Place Rostand, through the transparent water of the Soufflot fountain.

      Fontaine Soufflot Panthéon vu du Boulevard Saint Michel

      Before walking along the gates of the Luxembourg Gardens towards Port-Royal, I pay a little visit to the dancing fauna.

      Jardin Luxembourg Faune dansant Atget 1903 musée Carnavalet

      Jardin du Luxembourg
      Le Faune dansant

      Atget - 1903

      (Musée Carnavalet)

      Jardin Luxembourg Faune Dansant

      I enjoy everything here. I'm feeling good as I walk along the Boulevard Mich along the Luxembourg Gardens in the late afternoon, light-hearted like the joyful fauna.

      I'm feeling particularly lucky. I arrive at square Chance, 7 squares after Boulevard Saint-Michel. 

      But going towards the 14th seems like a premonition. Wasn't the boulevard Saint-Michel at this point once called rue d'Enfer (Hell Road)? I've been charged with a lot of cheating on these Monopoly walks. In my defence, I conscientiously followed all the streets in the game, simply optimising my moves! 

      But the verdict is in. I must go straight to prison

      • Then, let's continue along the Boulevard Saint-Michel.
        Through the chestnut trees of the Observatory alleys, I can see the graceful figures of the Four Parts of the World supporting the celestial sphere.

      Luxembourg Fontaine Carpeaux Atget Beaux Arts Paris

      Luxembourg
      Fontaine Carpeaux

      Atget - 1904

      (Beaux Arts de Paris)

      Fontaine Observatoire
      • Let's continue along the Avenue de l'Observatoire, which runs right alongside the Méridien de Paris.

      • Then we turn left onto Boulevard de Port-Royal. This runs along the back of the Val de Grâce.

      Val de Grâce du Boulevard de Port Royal
      • Let's turn right into rue de la Santé. I can't help it, I could buy here. There are some beautiful buildings, some with artists' studios.

      • But when I reach Boulevard Arago and see the prison, any desire to buy here disappears...

      • On the right, facing the prison wall, is the last public urinal in Paris. Also known as vespasienne, it is not used any more. I cannot see it without remembering its awful smell.
        They disappeared in the 1980s, replaced by odourless sanisettes accessible to all, gents and ladies... But why this name of ‘vespasienne’? Why not a rambuteau, as they were introduced by the prefect Rambuteau? The man was certainly more cautious than Poubelle, who introduced the waste bins still known today as poubelles. The man had also a fine education and chose the name after the Roman emperor Vespasian, who imposed a tax on urine, then used as a fixing agent for dyes.

      derniere vespasienne de Paris boulevard Arago devant la prion de la Santé

      La Santé (Health) is rather a strange name for a prison where one rarely improves it.

      Either due to some lack of imagination or just sense of humor, the name was given to the prison in 1867, when built on the same spot as a former health center. The center was transferred to the Sainte-Anne Asylum, another place of incarceration.

      Well, it's time to take out the prison release card ... and start afresh for new walks :-) ...

      Prison de la santé

      Texte / Photos : Martine Combes

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